Indian Textiles: Histories, Practices, Perspectives

How have Indian textile practices developed to their present form? What roles have scholarship, curation, collections, and museums played in shaping the formal perceptions of textiles today? This opening session explores these questions by tracing over a century of knowledge-building that has defined the field. It addresses critical gaps such as the complex positioning of textiles between art, design and craft; as well as the challenges of articulating these histories primarily in English. It also sets the framework for the forthcoming sessions.

The story of India’s textiles begins with the fibres that have shaped its past and present. Handspun cotton from the Indian subcontinent once dominated global markets, and its legacy reflects the intertwined impact of colonial and post-independence policies. In this session, we trace the incredible history of cotton, and lesser-known perspectives on silk, wool, pashmina, and other natural fibres — revealing their vibrant cultural and economic significance across the region.

Indian cloth has been at the centre of cultural exchange for centuries, carrying with it stories of taste and transformation. This session offers an overview of Indian textiles from the 9th to the 18th centuries, including trade textiles and those made for local courts. It covers textile traditions such as chintz and kalamkari, samite and lampas, as well as the Kashmir shawl. By examining how their popularity grew through commercial networks between India and the rest of the world, we learn how elite patronage enabled the highest forms of artistic expression and craftsmanship within the region.

What can the colonial archive reveal about Indian fabrics — and what does it obscure? This session explores how British imperial records, from Thomas Wardle’s silk volumes to The Great Exhibition inventories, shaped early studies of Indian textiles. Originally compiled to further the empire’s interests, these archives now offer insights into how Indian textiles were viewed, categorised and altered in the colonial imagination. Juxtaposing these with court records and vernacular sources, this session proposes new and critical ways of researching and teaching Indian textile histories today.

What prompted India to develop its own distinctive fashion language after 1947? This session traces how the post-independence revival of handlooms, which were deeply tied to the freedom struggle, influenced textile design and production. It explores how early economic policies and foreign relations fostered a ‘non-aligned’ fashion aesthetic, and delves into the inception of pioneering designer labels and brands in the decades that followed. By pursuing these developments — from institutional frameworks to iconic makers — we revisit the key shifts in India’s contemporary textile history.

Are we in the midst of a new renaissance for Indian textiles? Recent years have witnessed a surge in visibility for Indian textiles globally: we’ve seen an exponential rise in textile exhibitions, press interest on textile practitioners, and social media engagement with the subject. This session discusses emerging trends in the industry, the market and in academia, while capturing insights from experts mapping this change in the online space.

The global fashion industry is premised on seasonal changes in trends. Indian writers and designers have consistently raised concerns about its tendency to homogenise aesthetics and style, and to force a certain uniformity in retail formats. In this panel, we ask if a uniquely Indian attitude towards clothing is essential in sustaining the country’s varied textile traditions.

Renowned artist Monika Correa is known for her unique style of handweaving tapestries, with her work forming a part of major collections in India and abroad. Her creative journey reflects wider cultural developments in independent India and the significant rise of natural fibres and fabric as a medium of contemporary art. In this session, Correa joins artist and writer Pradeep Dalal to discuss her practice, early influences, and current interests; and to reflect on evolving systems of patronage and showcase.

Textile traditions have constantly innovated with design and its applications, for millennia. The practice of Dr Ismail Khatri — a leading exponent of Ajrakh — represents such dynamic aspects of handmade and hand-patterned Indian fabrics. In this session, he discusses his approach to art, entrepreneurship, mentorship, and education, while reflecting on the broader changes that have occurred in the Kutch region of Gujarat. He will be in conversation with Ami Shroff, a close collaborator at the Living and Learning Design Centre in Ajrakhpur, a pioneering organisation co-founded by Khatri.

Some of the most exceptional examples of historical Indian textiles sit in museums and collections across the world — from the West to other parts of Asia. For over a century, these institutions have enabled scholarship and consistently sustained global interest in them. Such efforts are now joined by a new generation of researchers, collectors and creatives. In this concluding session, we examine key questions of identity, authorship and curation, which guide — among other urgent concerns — debates around fair trade, labour rights, sustainability, and Geographical Indicators.